Simply Perfect…
I love when simple things are done simply well. The ability to beautifully prepare something seemingly easy is the mark of a true talent, because if it was truly easy, we could all do it. Pasta seems like it should be the most straightforward of culinary feats. But when you have had it done well, really well, you realize that perhaps something as basic as pasta can in fact be quite complex.
I have always thought of pasta as more the vehicle to showcase other flavors, rather than being the star itself. That was until I was introduced to fresh, handmade pasta. The ingredients seem easy enough, a little flour, some olive oil, salt, egg, but in the hands of an expert, these elements can come together as pure magic all on their own. And magic is what you will find at Pasta Bar.
Pasta Bar is not an Italian restaurant, it is a pasta restaurant. Their focus is completely on making the extraordinary out of something quite common. Everything on their menu revolves around the pasta. From the first dishes to the accompanying sides, everything is selected and edited to make sure that the pasta is properly highlighted and enjoyed. And let’s face it, if you are going to a place with pasta in the name, wouldn’t you want it to stand out?
Wanting to see exactly how good they are at making pasta, I selected one of the simplest dishes, the Bavette al Cedro, which is lemon, Italian butter and a little Parmigiano. It melted in my mouth. The flavors were balanced perfectly, and it was evident that the handmade pasta was done with care. Sean went with the more complex Orecchiette all Puttanesca, described as having twelve ingredients from the Neopolitan streetwalker’s pantry. He was equally impressed (both with the dish and the description). With both we saw how these dishes can be elevated at the hands of a master.
As per our usual, we ordered the local farm vegetables as a starter. It was a beautiful presentation that included three offerings, one with citrus, one with butternut squash, and one with an unexpected pairing of beets and walnuts that worked wonderfully well together.
It would make sense that we would both be so delighted. Wade Moises, Pasta Bar’s chef, learned his craft from Mario Batali, a true connoisseur of pasta. In our house even Aidan knows that Mario Batali equals good pasta. Wade trained at Babbo and Lupa, two of our favorites in New York, before coming to Phoenix. Wade and Nick Gentry also brought a little of the big city feel to their restaurant. Entering Pasta Bar feels a little like sneaking into a speakeasy. The entrance is in the back, hidden from the street by two other restaurants. And like a speakeasy, there is a cozy, private feeling and a well thought out menu of libations. If you go, order yourself a Jack’s New Fashion, their updated take on an Old Fashion. Just like the pasta, you will be dazzled.
Pasta Bar
“Fresh” the movie…
Bob, Marsha, Sean and I got to have a screening of the movie “Fresh”, a new documentary along the same vein as “Food Inc.” Much like “Food Inc.” the movie casts light on the travesties that have been incorporated into our nation’s food system under the guise of innovation and mass production. This is a story that cannot be told often enough and I am glad to see that there is another voice added in carrying this message mainstream. They highlight farmers, educators and grocers that are bucking convention in the name of personal and environmental health.
The movie did spend a great deal of time with Joel Salatin, the farmer featured in Michael Pollan’s book, “The Omnivore’s Dilemma”. He is quickly becoming a rock star to me for his outspoken opinions on the industrial model of agriculture and his dedication to sustainable farming. He is very articulate and educated about the effects of chemicals and industrialized farming. His philosophy to farming is more holistic with a symbiotic cycle between his livestock, poultry and grazing fields that is not only organic but productive and sustainable. Just seeing him talk to his hens made me want to cry from happiness. “Good morning ladies!” is how Joel greets them each morning.
Seeing the other hen houses just made me want to cry.
“Fresh” is a stark look at what our current food supply is doing to our environment, our health, and frankly, our standards. This isn’t just a movie, “Fresh” is a call to action. For more information on how you can see the movie, or what you can do to support the movement, visit www.freshthemovie.com. It is well worth the time and effort.
Perfect roasted carrots…
Warming up in Flagstaff…
We got to have a brief break during the holidays to go play up in the snow. Even as native Arizonans there is just something about seeing snow during December that just feels right. That said, I only lasted so long before needing to warm up and Criollo Latin Kitchen was the perfect spot to do just that.
Having just opened in December, Criollo is right in the middle of Flagstaff’s downtown located on San Francisco Street. I have always loved Flagstaff for its seasons and merciful temperature drop from Phoenix in the summer months. It has been nice to see the transformation that has been taking place up there over the past few years. The downtown area has begun to mature with the emergence of independent shops, galleries and restaurants are starting to add a local flavor and become a destination all their own. Criollo is adding its own flavor, Latin to be exact, that was missing from this mix. It is owned by Paul and Laura Moir, the same people who own Brix in Flagstaff, another favorite haunt of ours when in the northern country. If you haven’t tried Brix, that alone is worth the two hour drive.
Having spent the morning playing in the snow and working up an appetite, Sean, Aidan and I were ready to attack the menu when we got to Criollo. I was so hungry and cold at that point I would have settled for nearly anything. Thankfully I didn’t have to settle at all. Criollo offers brunch, lunch, dinner and tapas menus, although they offered to prepare us anything from their repertoire. A big thank you for that, since I couldn’t get past the Fingerling Potatoes with duck fat, sea salt and aioli on the tapas menu before looking at what they offered for lunch. Aidan turned his nose up at the aioli at first, but after accidentally getting a taste, he nearly finished off the whole plate.
Not to worry, I did have a Sandwich Cubano coming. I love a good Cuban Sandwich, and this one ranked right up there with the best. Sean and Aidan both went for the fish tacos, once they heard that they came with Mahi Mahi. I only got the briefest of bites from Aidan’s taco, since he was being a little territorial, but after having had a bite, I completely understand. The entire menu offers wonderfully authentic selections that all come with great care paid to organic ingredients and sustainably raised meats. Oh, and they have churros for dessert with Venezuelan chocolate! We were happily full by that point, but Sean has never turned down a churro. Why don’t all churros come with Venezuelan chocolate?
Flagstaff had been long overdue for noteworthy fare when Brix finally arrived four years ago. Brix turned up the notch for Flagstaff dining, moving away from the college/ski town fare to true cuisine. Criollo Latin Kitchen follows in that same tradition. It is nice to now have some real dining options in Flagstaff.
Latin food in cold weather, what a revelation!
Criollo Latin Kitchen
16 North San Francisco
Flagstaff, AZ 86001
928.774.0541
New Year’s Pop!
Happy Holidays!
Got Christmas crackers from Lisa for the table. Check.
Holiday Market Schedule…
Just a little heads up on our holiday schedule for the coming week!
Holiday Dining Recommendations…
FnB = LuV
Sean and I got to spend an evening at the newly opened FnB in Old Town Scottsdale. FnB is for Food-and-Beverage, and they definitely deliver on the name. For those of you in mourning over Sea Saw, as I am, you will be happy to know that Charlene Badman and Pavle Milic have recreated that same space with their own version of culinary genius. The menu and atmosphere does not at all resemble its previous life under Nobou Fukuda’s direction, but you will find that you are still dazzled by both a wonderful meal with inventive flavor pairings and the entertainment of a little kitchen theater while you dine.
I love watching a talented chef at work. I have spent years at Marsha’s kitchen counter while she creates her magic, all of it seemingly effortless. The bar at FnB offers this experience. The newly transformed space is very welcoming to pulling up a chair and watching as Charlene graces the kitchen. I found myself simultaneously enjoying what I had ordered and at the same time making mental notes for my next trip while I saw her create one beautiful dish after another.
Charlene Badman offers up a menu that displays the same culinary prowness she demonstrated at Rancho Pinot with selections that include Roast Jidori Chicken, Fried Green Tomatos with Green Goddess dressing (yes, please!) and Boneless Trout with Sunchokes, Caramelized Onions and Dill. All items we tried and enjoyed, along with a Cauliflower Gratin, a previously mentioned favorite of mine on the blog. Our conversation was interrupted throughout the meal with exclamations of “Oh wow! You have to try this!”
The new decor is very inviting, but it is Pavle’s attentiveness that makes you feel at home. I felt like I was a regular on my first night. Charlene offered us a taste of a new item of Braised Leeks with a Fried Egg on top that will soon be added to the menu. There was also a side of bread, to make sure we enjoyed every last bite, since the sauces were as much of a star as the dishes they accompanied.
Just when I thought we couldn’t take anymore, we saw her at work on a dessert, and found the strength to continue. Not wanting to chose favorites we ordered both the Crème Brulee with Meyer Lemon and an Apple Crisp with homemade Vanilla Ice Cream. Sean is a Crème Brulee fan (and snob, to be honest) and he declared Charlene’s to be the best he had ever tried. Plus, nothing is cooler than seeing a Crème Brulee caramelized with a branding iron. Told you it was kitchen theater.
My only regret was that we missed the Bread Pudding, made with the Chocolate Cherry Bread sold at the Old Town Scottsdale Farmer’s Market. That bread is my downfall, I have already hoarded some away in my freezer to save for Christmas morning. I can’t imagine what it must be like with Charlene working it into a bread pudding. Guess I will have to go back.
FnB is a such beautiful new addition to Old Town Scottsdale. I wish Charlene and Pavle all the success they so richly deserve. There must be good karma in that kitchen, because I foresee enjoying wonderful evenings there once again.
FnB
7133 East Stetson Drive, #2
Scottsdale, AZ 85251
480-425-9463
(I do not know of a website as of yet, but go find them on Facebook. They have a growing fan base, myself included!)
Dinner Coup…
Celebrating a special occasion? A quiet anniversary? Big milestone? Maybe you just need to celebrate that it’s Tuesday with someone special?
Coup des Tartes is such a wonderful place when you have something special to celebrate. Cozy and romantic and with such delicious food, it just feels like an occasion when you walk through the door. Coup des Tartes has the intimate feel of a restored home with little rooms, a courtyard, and tables near the fireplace. Maybe it was the candlelight, but it seem like every table had something to toast.
We had to order a tart. We chose the Three Onion Tart and Rocquefort salad to start. I enjoy dessert tarts, but savory ones are always more interesting and creative to me. They are complex to pull off successfully. Let’s just say the the restaurant is aptly named, it was beautifully done.
I also enjoyed the Chicken Coup with an argula cream sauce. I have never had an argula cream sauce, but I know that I will again. Sean had the Pork with a wonderful mustard sauce, which I enjoyed sopping up with their bread. It was a lovely evening and Coup des Tartes did make an ordinary Tuesday evening extraordinary.
McClendon's Select 
